Both images courtesy of
cottageindustry


LILLY DACHE’ - (1907-1989) Lilly Dache’ started her millinery shop in 1924. By the 1930s she was also producing handbags and other accessories. She worked with Hollywood designer Travis Banton, producing hats to complement his dresses and suits. By the 1950s she had introduced a line of costume jewelry. In 1958 Dache’ hired Halston as a hat designer. Lilly Dache’ retired in 1968.

fuzzylizzie


From an early 1960's suit.
pastperfect2
DAVIDOW: Founded in the late 19th Century, the William H. Davidow and Sons company manufactured coats and suits. Eventually the business became Davidow, known for their tailored suits. Davidow suits were always wonderfully cut and made, using integral features of the fabric rather than applied detail. By the 1960s, they were producing a classic box jacket suit with straight skirts that could be found in better department stores across the USA. - pastperfect2


from a 1970s-80s wool shirt
fuzzylizzie

DONALD DAVIES - Donald Davies is one of the better known and respected Irish designers. He was active from the 50s to the 70s, and worked principally in fine woollens and challises, and Irish linen. He is particularly well-known for his simple but superb shirtdresses, believed by insiders to be the best of their kind. These were worn across the world, literally to shreds by some devoted fans, so that they are quite rare now.


From a 1960s dress
whirly-girl

NELLY DE GRAB – De Grab was born in Vienna, Austria. She & her husband, Leo & son Richard emigrated to New York City around 1939. There they founded the Nelly de Grab dress company. whirly-girl
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kickshawproductions

B-

bogbody

C-

jbhoffman

D-

poshthreads

E-


OSCAR DE LA RENTA - Born in the Dominican Republic, de la Renta worked for many designers on his way to Jane Derby, where he was head designer before changing it to his own label. From evening gowns to peasant dresses, his clothing has always been opulent, romantic, extravagant, and feminine, and even ornate. De la Renta's simpler day wear is defined by detail. De la Renta is presently Artistic Directeur for the House of Balmain. pastperfect2

labels: Oscar de la Renta for Elizabeth Arden (1963-65), Oscar de la Renta for Jane Derby (1965-67), Oscar de la Renta (to present). pastperfect2

Label A : from a c. 1973 dress

Label B : a modern label, from a 1990s coat

Label C : from a 'Swirl' dress by Oscar de la Renta.

Label D : a 1970s label

Label E : from a mid-80s party dress


From a 1940s suit
pastperfect2

JANE DERBY - "Best known as a top of the line Ready to Wear designer. She was born Jeannette Barr in 1895 in Virginia. Derby opened her retail business in New York in 1936 and Jane Derby Inc. in 1938. Her clothing was geared toward the mature women, and featured three and four piece town suits, as well as both casual and full evening wear. She often showed dresses with jackets or shawls , and used flattering necklines in soft silhouettes for her customer. Continuing to show conservative and feminine clothing, she ran her house till her death in 1965, when it was taken over by Oscar de la Renta. From 1965 - 67, the label was Oscar la Renta for Jane Derby." - pastperfect2

Source:
New York Fashion by Caroline Rennolds Milbank

Click here for additional photos.


From a c. 1958 gown
kickshawproductions

JEAN DESSES - "A top Parisian Couture house , for which Laroche and Valentino had worked before starting their own couture houses . Desses dresses are extremely rare , often turning up at couture auction houses only. Perhaps best known for the yellow 50s gown which Rene' Zellweger wore to the 2001 Oscars !" -knockout*clothing


From a 70s sundress - smokydiva

DEWEESE DESIGN - DeWeese Design was started in the 1960s by Mary Ann Deweese. She had been the head designer at Catalina for many years before starting her own business. DeWeese Designs was primarily a maker of swimsuits and sundresses. – fuzzylizzie


from a late 40s, early 50s dress and matching jacket
artisannes


from a 1950s black velvet gown
artisannes


From a 1954 tweed dress for the
Dior London H-Line Autumn-Winter.


From a non-licensed Christian Dior Fall-Winter 1973 Mark Bohan.
jbhoffman

CHRISTIAN DIOR - 1905 –1958

Christian Dior was one of the most influential designers of the 20th Century. From 1941 – 46, Dior worked at Lucien Lelong. While there he attracted the attention of textile maker Marcel Boussac, who became Dior’s financial backer. In the spring of 1947, Dior showed his first major collection, the “Corolle” line, which came to be known as the “New Look”. The “New Look” was made up of long, full skirts and a nipped-in waist that called for the use of a corset.

Dior continued to be a major force in the fashion world in the 1950s, with a new silhouette each season, including the Princess line of 1951, the “H” line of 1954, and the “A” and “Y” lines of 1955.

After Dior’s death in 1958, his assistant, Yves Saint Laurent, became the head designer at Dior. The head designers at Dior have been:

1947 –1958 – Christian Dior
1958 –1960 – Yves Saint Laurent
1960 –1989 – Marc Bohan
1989 –1996 – Gianfranco Ferre’
1996 – present – John Galliano

fuzzylizzie


From a 1970 gown

DIORLING - "One of Christian Dior's licensed lines targeted towards younger and hipper people. Note the ink-stamped serial number on the label which is the registration number of the dress design, and can be traced via the Dior Archives. "


From a 1970s muslin dress

DOLLY ROCKERS : One of the lesser labels of the British Boutique Movement. The house designer for this label was known as "Sambo". While they also did crisply cut, simple fashions, their best work is represented in their peasant dresses, usually made from gossamer-light, richly hued custom print cottons, voile, and muslin. Active c.1965-c.1975


From a mid 1970s dress – nowandthenfashion


From a full length lace evening dress, late 1960s –
raven_
EMMA DOMB

From a 1920s crepe and silk flapper dress.
profkaren
DONTU

myownmouth

DOUPIONI - "Reeled from double silk cocoons nested together, the threads are uneven and irregular. Italian Doupioni is the finest, followed by Chinese and Indian Doupioni. Doupioni is also seen in man-made fibres such as polyester and acetate and is referred to as Doupioni. Doupioni is most often found in men's and women's fine suits and also dresses in lighter weight silk doupioni. " - myownmouth