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fuzzylizzie
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![[*]](./images/xmbforum/default_icon.gif) posted on 17-10-04 at 12:48 AM |
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Old Thread ~ for reference only
The Vintage Clothing Guild is constantly updating the Label Resource, and we welcome contributions. If you have labels to contribute, we ask that you
keep in mind a few guidelines.
First, please check the Resource to insure that your label is not already included.
If your label is NOT shown there, and you feel it should be, then post an image of the label onto this thread, together with details of
(1) date of garment
(2) type of garment
(3) any information you have about the designer/label.
Try to get a clear, straight shot of the label. Please crop it to show just the label, and resize it to 200 pixils across.
Also, because of the change of the label sizes when changing to the new format, some of the old labels are grainy and hard to read. If you have one
of the labels that is in this condition, we welcome your replacement label.
By posting your label image here, you are giving your copyright assignment for the image to go onto the Label Resource. You will be credited for your
contribution.
We are always looking for new information about any of the labels on the resource. Please post here or contact me if you have information you wish to
contribute!
Lizzie
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katzoid
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| posted on 17-10-04 at 01:40 PM |
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Hi Lizzie!
I've been meaning to post this for you for a while, Laura Ashley Lundy Island label from a nautical inspired cardigan, early 90s.
Kat
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katzoid
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| posted on 17-10-04 at 01:48 PM |
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OOPS!
Forgot about this one as well.
P.N. Degerberg, ladies custom made wool tweed riding jacket 1941. Sorry no other info other then they were from Philadelphia.
Kat
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heavensent-hellbent
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| posted on 17-10-04 at 02:50 PM |
Reply #: 3 |
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i have labels for you lizzie but my scanner is being fiesty! i will work on it today.
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emmapeelpants
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| posted on 17-10-04 at 02:51 PM |
Reply #: 4 |
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Janice Wainwright at Forty Seven Poland Street. From a beautifully embroidered top - early-mid 70s.
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emmapeelpants
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| posted on 17-10-04 at 02:59 PM |
Reply #: 5 |
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David Silverman. Another British Boutique designer but I know nothing about him. Some fabulous clothes!! Maybe one for the mystery labels thread for
more designer info?
From an early 70s brown velvet pinafore dress.
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emmapeelpants
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| posted on 17-10-04 at 03:04 PM |
Reply #: 6 |
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Another slight variation on the woven Varon label - with the 'Jean' in italics. From an early-mid 70s dress.
Remind me to send you the Varon/Bates bio Lizzie!!! *slaps own wrist*
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fuzzylizzie
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| posted on 17-10-04 at 03:19 PM |
Reply #: 7 |
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*Slaps Liz's Wrist*
Consider yourself reminded!
Lizzie
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Patentleathershoes
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| posted on 17-10-04 at 11:17 PM |
Reply #: 8 |
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Not a label, but here is a Neiman Marcus bio you have been seeking....
Carrie Marcus Neiman and Al Neiman, along with Ms. Neiman's brother, Herbert Marcus, founded Neiman Marcus in 1907. The first store was in downtown
Dallas, Texas. They sold their sales promotion business, and set their sites on opening a store like that had never been seen, "providing fine
ready-to-wear appearel and unsurpassed customer service."
The corner stone of their company was "It's never a good sale for Neiman Marcus," Herbert Marcus said, "unless it's a good buy for the
customer."
Stanley Marcus, son of Herbert joined the business in the 1920s. and in 1938, he instituted the Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the
Field of Fashion. Among recipients have been Grace Kelly, Coco Chanel and Miuccia Prada.
Neiman Marcus DIrect was formed in 1987 and publishes dozens of mail-order catalogs including Neiman Marcus by Mail and Horchow. This division united
the Neiman Marcus stores and the Bergdord Goodman stores in New York In 1999, Neiman marcus lanched an e-commerce site. Neiman Marcus continues seek
and aquire major interests in luxury goods such as Kate Spade.
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Noir*Boudoir
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| posted on 17-10-04 at 11:53 PM |
Reply #: 9 |
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Salvatore's daughter, right? Is the Ferragamo ready-to-wear clothing normally labelled like this?
This was from some royal blue towelling (!) short shorts (70s? I'll post a picture after I've washed them...). Likely to have been purchased from
Fortnum and Mason (according to their own website, early stockers of Ferragamo in London), since they came associated with other products from that
store.
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Noir*Boudoir
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| posted on 18-10-04 at 01:14 AM |
Reply #: 10 |
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And another Jaeger label - but on a simple cotton printed polka dot square headscarf (pretty much as you see in the background)... so... 60s?
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Noir*Boudoir
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| posted on 18-10-04 at 10:51 PM |
Reply #: 11 |
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Need Jantzen?
I just got a nice tweed pencil skirt - sold as 40s, or could be? 50s.
The skirt, from the seller's photo:
And some detail:
I know very little about Jantzen apart from the fact that they're famous US swimwear manufacturers.
The two main online sources I found are the Jantzen site itself, and the description of the Jantzen archive at the Smithsonian.
---------------------------
Phaedon 'Fashion' book sez:
'Carl Jantzen founded the Portland Knitting Co with John and Roy Zehntbauer in 1910. Their heavy wool sweaters, socks, and gloves, produced on a few
knitting machines and sold from the company shop, were phenomenally successful. The trunks soon became known as 'Jantzens', and the company changed
its name accordingly in 1918. Three years later, the Red Diving Girl motif was added. Jantzen's early designs were unisex... but the developments
resulted in streamlined swimwear for women.
----------------------
From the Smithsonian blurb:
-1918, the name change was to 'Jantzen Knitting Mills'.
- the swim suit design was derived from trying to design a ribbed knit suit for rowers.
- a patent for the elastic rib stitch suit was granted in 1921.
- "Carl Jantzen’s inventiveness was responsible for the development of an automated circular knitting machine, derivative of hosiery knitting
machines, with a fine needle-bed which produced the light-weight material needed for swimsuits. It also reduced the cost of knitting
dramatically."
- "The name was again changed in 1954 to Jantzen Inc."
- "An idea for a cut-out sticker of a "diving girl’ in a red Jantzen suit and knitted cap was reported in a 1923 issue of Men’s Wear N.Y. as
"proving popular with auto-drivers--[and that] many windshields carry as many as 3 or 4 of the figure." It also became the Jantzen logo."
-"In 1936 Jantzen made one of its greatest plant investments: a new spinning mill which was considered "the most up to date dying and spinning mill
in the U.S." It enabled Jantzen to experiment with different fibers instead of having to purchase them from other mills. In the same year the firm
hired their first female designer."
-----------------
Styles & designers (mainly from the company website)
- "1920 'Color harmony' a range of colors and color combinations was introduced to suit the coloration of every swimmer"
- "1930 - In 1931 the introduction of the 'Shouldaire' allowed strap-free tanning. An internal drawstring above the bustlined allowed the shoulder
straps to be dropped. The concept of "Molded Fit" defined the bustline. Lastex, a rubberized yarn, was blended into the fabric to allow better give
to the suit. Synthetics, such as rayon, appeared with cotton or silk. Later in the decade, woven patterned fabrics in many color combinations made
their debut."
- "Business perked up in 1941 after Jantzen added sweaters, foundations (girdles) and active sportswear to its basic swimwear line.... With the
war's end, the company stressed new styling by nationally noted designers such as Louella Ballerino. Nylon was the preferred fabric."
- "1970. Bright floral prints in beachwear continued to be fashionable, as were patterns with Hawaiian motifs"
-------------------------
Sorry for not boiling this down, but apart from having no perspecive on the company at all, my brain's editing circuit has just burned out...
From the briefest possible Ebay survey, it looks like the woollen knits continued to be produced into the 60s or 70s...
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fuzzylizzie
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| posted on 19-10-04 at 12:22 AM |
Reply #: 12 |
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Giovanna is one of the Ferragamo daughters. The modern Ferragamo label just reads "Ferragamo" but I don't have a copy of it.
And thanks for the information on Jantzen. I'll write a temporary bio, and then fine-tune it later.
L
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emmapeelpants
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| posted on 21-10-04 at 11:49 AM |
Reply #: 13 |
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A clearer Bus Stop black label - I did notice that the layout is slightly different to the one there already - the London is aligned to the right and
there is no size. From a 40s style blouse.
Alternative John Stephen label from a op-art print dress. I'm assuming this is later than the existing one because it says 'great britain' rather
than England but someone else might have more of an idea than I. The dress LOOKS 60s but might be unfashionable 70s.
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www.VintageGrace.com
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| posted on 22-10-04 at 09:22 AM |
Reply #: 14 |
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I simply can not believe how bad I have been, never posting my labels! I promise to put more effort into it!
Here is a Lanz label with a slight variation from the ones you have
1970s Black Velvet & Satin Lanz Dress
1980s Diane Von Furstenberg Asymmetrical Dress
1980s Bill Blass Dress
1970s Lilli Ann 40s Inspired Tweed Suit
We don't have any Margret Smith labels??? Wow! I'll get you some from her purses too. This is a 1970s Cotton Shirt Dress
1970s Molly Parnis Skirt Set
I told you I've been bad!!
~Maureen
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Patentleathershoes
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| posted on 22-10-04 at 03:30 PM |
Reply #: 15 |
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Don't know if you even want this write up i did..but noticed Sears is not in the resource. I do have a Sears Roebuck label from a jacket, but it is
a little light..but maybe i can fix the photos. i am sure other people have labels....i still want to figure out all the instore brand labels...but
here is the write up...
i will edit for typos later /rework after i know if you want to use it.
Chris
================================
Sears & Roebuck Company has a long and varied history.
In 1886, Richard W. Sears, forms the R.W> Sears Watch company in Minnesota after reitiring as a railroad station company. He places an ad in the
paper for a watch repairman. It is answered by Alvah C. Roebuck.
They began a catalog selling watches, jewelry, and a few other products In 1888, they move thier business to Chicago., and subsequently opened a
location in Toronto to meet the demands of Canadian business. Business is good; so good that Richard Sears retires to a small fortune in 1891, But
several weeks later, persuaded by his partner, they reopen as A.C. Roebuck. In 1893, they change their name to Sears, Roebuck, and Co. as they are
today. In 1894, sewing machines are added, and in 1895, it is Roebuck that retires this time and is replaced as Julius Rosenwald becomes the
financial planner, then in 1908 Sears retires after publicly offering Sears stock in 1906.
Throughout the years that followed, sears would remain a front runner in the catalog and consumer product industry, selling the Sears Motor Buggy
from 1909-1912, created a lab to test products in 1911, 1926 Allstate tire was born, followed by Craftsman and Kenmore in 1927. In 1924 they
launched WLS radio that is still broadcasting in Chicago today.
Their first retail store opens in 1925, and opened the first windowless department store in 1934, In 1953, the Sears charge debuted, and in 1986, they
added barcodes to all of their products , Anticipating U.S. demographic changes, in 1946, Sears begins a program to build large stores in suburbs.
Despite these change, they never forgot about their now famous catolog. Their first Christmas wish book debuted in 1933 (but was not officially
called such until 1965). During the war, many items were pulled from the catalog during rationing, and 75% of their employees were women, and Sears
ended mail order groceris during the war effort. in 1960, the Barbie doll makes her first appearnace in the book. In 1965, the sears exclusive Winnie
the Pooh children's sleepwear debuted
The catalog was discontinued in 1993. wisbhbook.com is launched in its place in 1995. To historians, and collectors a like, in retrospect, the Sears
catalog takes an important. look back through history. It represents not necessarily what was on the fashion runway, but what the average person
living in the united states was wearing every day.
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pf1
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| posted on 22-10-04 at 05:21 PM |
Reply #: 16 |
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Lizzie, I'd hoped to get you some bio info on John Anthony, but simply have not had time to pull it together. I'm pretty sure this isn't a couture
label, but from the years when he was doing ready-to-wear. Definitely 80's, gray wool knit dress with camel jacket & HUGMONGOUS shoulder
pads.
Patsy
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pf1
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| posted on 22-10-04 at 05:25 PM |
Reply #: 17 |
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Here's a Zoran...don't know if there are others, but this is the only one I've ever seen. This one's from a 90's cashmere dress. 
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pf1
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| posted on 22-10-04 at 06:09 PM |
Reply #: 18 |
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Sorry...this is the Zoran label I meant to post..the previous one's not the correct size.
Patsy
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Noir*Boudoir
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| posted on 22-10-04 at 09:57 PM |
Reply #: 19 |
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The Frederick Starke label, in case we get a critical mass of info from the Q & A board (fingers crossed).
I also just gathered (also via google) that fashion historian Janet Arnold gained tailoring experience 'in the London couture workrooms of Frederick
Starke and Victor Stiebel'.
[
Sorry it's a bit dark (it's a bit dark everywhere around here at the moment).
L
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alonesolo
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| posted on 24-10-04 at 02:09 PM |
Reply #: 20 |
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Don't know if I have the right size or not.
Farnk Olive Franks Girl label from a tam and scarf set in tartan plaid I figured it was 60's inside is lined in hot pink bengaline faille.
Small bio of info I could collect ( not much)
Frank Olive successor designer Gabriel Amar
Gabriel was
Well known for designing hats for the Kentucky Derby the Frank Olive name is as famous as Secretariat. Prices for these hats can be high.
Frank Olive stated , "It's not the shape of the woman's face that really decides, but the attitude of the hat."
From a Diane Von F lounging pyjamas set The Color Authority
If you need them resized just U2U me and I will
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Patentleathershoes
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| posted on 24-10-04 at 02:50 PM |
Reply #: 21 |
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Oh, I have a Frank Olive label if i can find it...i will look on my sold auction disk to see if i can find it! so you will have a collection started
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fuzzylizzie
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| posted on 25-10-04 at 02:20 AM |
Reply #: 22 |
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Caught up!
*Slaps Liz's other wrist* 
Lizzie
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emmapeelpants
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| posted on 25-10-04 at 11:31 AM |
Reply #: 23 |
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Lizzie - will you forgive me if I send you a new John Bates label to go with the bio?? I promise I will get it off the other computer today (I've
been away for a few days!!!!
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fuzzylizzie
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| posted on 25-10-04 at 10:38 PM |
Reply #: 24 |
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Absolutely! You sure know how to make me happy, don't, you, Liz??
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b*a*vintagequeen
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| posted on 26-10-04 at 11:24 AM |
Reply #: 25 |
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From an early 60's ladies wool coat.
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emmapeelpants
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| posted on 26-10-04 at 11:38 AM |
Reply #: 26 |
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Here's the John Bates label. This is, AFAIK, the earliest John Bates label that I've seen. It is from a mid-70s chiffon dress, near identical to
some Jean Varon dresses I have, but of a much higher quality. The white on black Bates label has been seen on very late 70s and early 80s items
so I'm assuming it is a later label.
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shopping-goddess
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| posted on 26-10-04 at 03:22 PM |
Reply #: 27 |
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Here's a 70s Costa I don't see in the resource. I'm sorry it's so crunched...
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Noir*Boudoir
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| posted on 29-10-04 at 04:18 PM |
Reply #: 28 |
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Pringle labels
I'm just putting these up in the hope of dates & varieties making more sense on the screen.
Or maybe we just distinguish between 'Pringle for ***' labels, which vary, and 'Pringle' labels, which probably do have a clear dating
progression.
Anyway.
Pringle for B Altman store. From a black cashmere 3/4 sleeve sweater with button & loop fastenings v-neck & collar. 50s?
Pringle own label. Men's cashmere argyle patterned cardigan. 50s. Courtesy of Kevinjohn (you've probably got this one - I can't remember which
thread I saved it from... this one even??)
And this one, from a men's lambswool argyle patterned v-neck sweater, I think is a lot more recent. The lettering is different from the 50s labels
(which often seem to have quite a 'slimline' P)
I suspect a few vintage v-neck pringles offered on Ebay as 50s may actually be 60s, 70s or later, since they have label similar to this one. I don't
know when the red dragon was dropped from Pringle own label (and whether it was consistently dropped, and replaced by the royal warrant) - poss late
50s? - , but it has been restored recently as a more exclusive logo, possibly when the brand changed hands in 2000.
The other change is 'Pringle of Scotland' (with 'made in Scotland' elsewhere) to just 'Pringle, Made in Scotland'. 'Pringle of Scotland' is
not just the phrase used on commissioned items, but appears on a Pringle own label sewn into a 50s mink-collared cashmere sweater auctioned by
threewings recently. I still have to ask permission for this:
So I'm not clear as to the date for this change.
I've managed to obliterate my file of camelbackcat Joey's very unusual 50s? square Pringle label, from a lambswool sweater produced for another
store. Argh.
I've also stolen quite a few labels off Ebay auctions, but forgot to note down the sellers, so we can't ask for permission (doh). But 'produced
for' stores include Eatons, Klines and the Scotch House, among others.
Will do the biog later.
L
-----------
Found it!
[img]http://users.ox.ac.uk/~wolf1360/auction/clothes/labels/camelbackcat's%20pringle%20cardi.jpg[/img]
From a lambswool cardi for Lewis & Thos. Saltz, Washington. Unlike all the others, this looks like a label sewn in by the store rather than the
manufacturer, since it has little in common with other Pringle labels. It has the dragon (in outline), but it also has 'Made in Scotland' and *no*
royal warrant crest or text. Also, I guess the 'Pure Wool' icon dates it as later than 50s, although the style (if I remember the photos) is very
similar to styles produced c. 1958.
--------------------
Other labels with no permission, for info/comparison:
[img]http://users.ox.ac.uk/~wolf1360/auction/clothes/labels/pringle%20for%20kline's%20inc.jpg[/img]
 No date - lost the garment reference - but this looks
like the early-mid 50s label (?)
 An unusual example of a Pringle design made by a neighbouring
firm. No idea how this relates to everything else.
Now this really screws up my 'Made in Scotland' 'Pringles of Scotland' dating theory - both of these sweaters looked later, possibly 70s or 80s.
Presumably designed to be prestige lines.
---------------
The Pringle website has a new 'History' section up. It says the royal warrant was granted by the queen (ie George V's wife) in 1948 for supplying
her with fine cashmere since 1937.
This may, er, be significant for revising the dates of the garments without the royal warrant...
*But* the *next* queen, Elizabeth II, granted another royal warrant to the firm in 1956. Which is possibly the more likely point at which the label
changed. I'll sort this out for the write up.
Oh cr*p - the Kline's sweater has a royal warrant on the cardboard tag, but not on the label. ::sigh::
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Patentleathershoes
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| posted on 29-10-04 at 05:04 PM |
Reply #: 29 |
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Frank Olive for Bonwit Teller...so can be used for both. Note trademark pink inner band. From a 60s hat that is a cross between a cloche hat and a
fedora.
For Sears entry/bio.... I am pretty sure this is 70s. from a tweedy blazer. maybe early 80s but i get a 70s vibe from the font.
Still looking for my other sears label i had
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