The teddy, formerly known as the Envelope Chemise, began in the 1920s and was worn next to the skin, replacing the bra and panties, or over the bra like a slip. In its early form it had a very straight cut with a simple button closures at the crotch to define the legs. It developed into a more fitted step-in garment with short legs and a fitted bust line in the 30s and 40s.