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Shown are a few of the different styles of treatments used on vintage lingerie.
Applique: a method of overlaying fabric or lace onto fabric in a decorative manner, usually with a satin sticth edge.
1920s Appliqué and embroidery example
Courtesy of dancingdresses
Appliques layer of embroidered chiffon forms a lilac on Odette Barsa gown
Courtesy of dancing dresses
Lace with appliqué overlays from Barbizon slip
Courtesy of alonesolo/fashiontales
Chantilly Lace: A lace commonly used in vintage lingerie. Note there are no threads or cords outlining the flowers of the lace. The background is a fine net.
Courtesy of shopping goddess
Crystal Pleating: You will sometimes see a pleating treatment on lingerie. This is called either Crystal Pleating, Crimp Pleating, or Perma Pleating.
Black 50's half slip - shows pillow tab, lace inset and crystal pleating
Courtesy of dancing dresses
Eyelet: often used to trim lingerie from the 19th C on. Usually a series of worked round holes that form a repetitive pattern.
Close-up of treatment on Van Raalte
Courtesy of alonesolo/fashiontales
Overlay: This example is a late 1940's Rogers Runproof gown with lace bodice and tulle overlay
Courtesy of dancing dresses
Pellon Lining: Another construction detail on mid 20th Century slips is a pellon lining. This is a interfacing lining that is added to the inside of the slip for stiffness.
Picot Stitiching - example of picot stitching, a scalloped type of stitching used in earlier lingerie as a hem finish.
Courtesy of alonesolo/fashiontales
Pintucking: This example is from a 1912 gown. Pin tucking is tiny tucks in the fabric which is then sewn so close that it can't even be measured.
Courtesy of late*bloomers
Ruching and Shirring: detail found on the bottom of a 50's slip, this inset with lace.
Courtesy of alonesolo/fashiontales
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