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» Home arrow Explore Vintage Fashion arrow Lingerie arrow Fabric and Lace Treatments
Friday, 16 May 2008
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Fabric and Lace Treatments Print E-mail
Written by Pauline Cameron/alonesolo/fashiontales   

Shown are a few of the different styles of treatments used on vintage lingerie.

Applique: a method of overlaying fabric or lace  onto  fabric in a decorative manner, usually with a satin sticth edge. 

appliqueembroiderydancingdresses
1920s Appliqué and embroidery example
Courtesy of dancingdresses
appliquelilacdancingdresses 
Appliques layer of embroidered chiffon forms a lilac on Odette Barsa gown
Courtesy of dancing dresses
appliqueoverlacefashiontales
Lace with appliqué overlays from Barbizon slip
Courtesy of alonesolo/fashiontales

Chantilly Lace: A lace commonly used in vintage lingerie.  Note there are no threads or cords outlining the flowers of the lace. The background is a fine net.

chantillylaceshopppinggoddess
Courtesy of shopping goddess

Crystal Pleating: You will sometimes see a pleating treatment on lingerie. This is called either Crystal Pleating, Crimp Pleating, or Perma Pleating.

crystalpleatingdancingdresses
Black 50's half slip - shows pillow tab, lace inset and crystal pleating
Courtesy of dancing dresses

Eyelet: often used to trim lingerie from the 19th C on. Usually a series of worked round holes that form a repetitive pattern. 

eyeletvanraaltefashiontales
Close-up of treatment on Van Raalte
Courtesy of alonesolo/fashiontales

Overlay: This example is a late 1940's Rogers Runproof gown with lace bodice and tulle overlay

 

tulleoverlay1940sdancingdresses
Courtesy of dancing dresses

Pellon Lining: Another construction detail on mid 20th Century slips is a pellon lining. This is a interfacing lining that is added to the inside of the slip for stiffness. 

Picot Stitiching - example of picot stitching, a scalloped type of stitching used in earlier lingerie as a hem finish.

 

picotstitchingfashiontales
Courtesy of alonesolo/fashiontales

 

Pintucking: This example is from a 1912 gown. Pin tucking is tiny tucks in the fabric which is then sewn so close that it can't even be measured.

pintucking1912latebloomers 
Courtesy of late*bloomers

Ruching and Shirring:  detail found on the bottom of a 50's slip, this inset with lace.

shirringandinsetlacefashiontales
Courtesy of alonesolo/fashiontales