The Evolution of the Victorian Crinoline

As a reaction against the slim, high waisted styles of the early Regency era, 1830's waistlines began to drop to a more natural level and skirts began to grow wider. A horsehair crinoline or corded linen petticoat was needed to achieve this full skirt look and by the 1840's, multiple layers of corded linen or horsehair petticoats called crinolines were worn. About 4-6 depending on the fullness required and the weather, were required to acquire a full bell shaped skirt. Small crescent shaped padded bustles were also employed to add fullness to the skirt.

Wearing many layers of petticoats was cumbersome (they wrapped around the wearers legs when walking) and were hot. As the fashion for very large bell shaped skirts continued to grow, the horsehair and corded linen petticoat could not achieve the very large size desired and so by 1855- 1856, the new invention called the Cage Crinolines appeared.

Women hailed the cage crinoline as it was airy and light, thereby freeing the legs. Skirt could grow to enormous widths without the need for hot and cumbersome petticoats. The cage crinoline were worn all the way through to the end of the 1860's only changing shape to suit the changing fashions.

Most daywear crinolines were approx. 90"- 120" in circumference, larger sizes were reserved for evening wear or for the very rich who had the space to move around in them.

By the end of the 1860's, the cage crinoline started to flatten at the front with the emphasise was placed more on the back of the skirt.