The Sari

The Sari. Original drawing by Anna Baria.

The Sari is probably the best known item of Indian clothing, it is instantly recognisable and all who see it instantly associate it with India. Basically a Sari is a length of fabric, rectangular in shape and usually five to six yards in length. It can be made from almost every possible type of fabric you can think of but the most elaborate and stunning are made from silk heavily embroidered with metallic gold or silver thread.

The Sari is not ‘made to fit’ but instead is ‘one size fits all’ as the fabric is wrapped around the body and no stitching is required. It is worn with a tight fitting, cropped blouse called a Choli and a long petticoat into which the waist of the Sari is tucked. It is possible to show as much or as little flesh as you want with a Sari depending on how you wrap it, and it can be worn in several ways depending on the woman’s age, status, occupation and religion.

The top edge of the Sari is tucked into the waistband of the petticoat and wrapped round and round the lower body each time being gathered and pleated at the front until there is enough layers to make a full skirt with a thin vertical row of pleats at the front. The remainder of fabric is then taken diagonally across the body and over the shoulder, pinned to the Choli for security if so wished and left to drape down the back. The piece of fabric which hangs down the back will have a very deep border with an elaborate pattern either printed, woven or embroidered depending on the fabric.This border is known as a Pallu and is present on every Sari.

The Salwar Kameez

The Salwar Kameez. Original drawing by Anna Baria.

The Salwar Kameez is probably the most popular of all the Indian clothes. Originally from the Punjab and Kashmir, it is now worn throughout India and by most Indian women living abroad. It’s popularity is due to the fact that is is comfortable, practical, modest yet incredibly elegant and stylish, so much so that it is even becoming popular amongst Western women.

The salwar kameez can come in a variety of fabrics, lengths and cuts but it will always consist of the same three things. First, the Salwar, which are huge baggy trousers, usually with a drawstring waist, a low crotch and heavily stitched, stiff cuffs. Then there is the Kameez (similar to the French word Chemise, French for shirt). This is the dress and can either be loose and flowing or more fitted at the waist with an a-line skirt. It more often than not has slits up the sides which can range from knee length to up to the thigh.

Next is the Dupatta, the scarf. This also ranges in size from a long thin length of chiffon to a huge piece of fabric big enough to use as a shawl. No Indian woman would ever wear her Salwar Kameez without the Dupatta. It is worn draped loosely at the front of the neck and over the shoulders, and is used to cover the head for religious reasons.

With the rising popularity of Bollywood the Salwar Kameez has undergone a dramatic Westernisation amongst young, trendy Indian women and you can now find Salwar Kameez’s with a much shorter kameez (above the knee) and Western straight leg trousers which looks quite stunning and sophisticated and can easily be worn by Western women without looking too ‘Ethnic’.

The Churidah

Churidah are similar to the Salwar but they are very tight fitting in the leg and incredibly long so that they bunch up around the ankle, this is meant to represent bangles hence the name Churidah meaning Bangles. These are usually worn with a collarless or Mandarin collar tunic known as a Kurta but can also be found with a long, very full skirted kameez sometimes with matching sleeves, bunched around the wrists. These look truly beautiful when worn, as you just catch a glimpse of ankle beneath the flowing folds of the dress.

Lehanga or Ghagra Choli

The Lehanga, or Ghagra Choli. Original drawing by Anna Baria.

This is a traditional outfit which you can also find modern variations of. It consists of the tight fitting Choli and a long, full skirt: the Lehanga. The more modern skirts are cut on the bias and have a grand ball gown look to them, the more traditional kind are straight cut but still quite full. This outfit also includes a Dupatta.

You can find variations of these outfits with waist length or sometimes longer, fitted jacket style tops rather than the Choli. The elaborately embroidered ones are favoured for weddings and special occasions. This style of dress originated in Rajastan whereby the original choli would have covered the front only leaving the back bare.