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Saturday, 05 July 2008
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1920 - 1930 Print E-mail
Written by Vintage Fashion Guild   

Vintage FasionGuild Timeline 1920 - 1930

 

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ca 1922-23 Silk Beaded Dress w/ I. Magnin label, courtesy Hollis Jenkins-Evans,pastperfectvintage.com
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ca 1923 Harry Collins Velvet & Chiffon Dress, courtesy Hollis Jenkins-Evans, pastperfectvintage.com
World War I ended and euphoria was the order of the day. Fashion responded by dropping waists to high hip levels and dresses became unfitted. While some gowns retained the design complexity of the Teens, the trend was toward Simplicity. Simple bodices, shaped using only a few tucks or shirring at the shoulders, or a little gather at the side seam reflected this new freedom. As the decade began hems lines perched above the ankle but in only three years skirt lengths had risen to unprecedented - and to some - shocking heights!

 

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1926-27 Lanvin Beaded Silk Robe de Style, courtesy Deborah Burke, antiquedress.com
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L. ca 1925 Fuschia Velvet Evening Dress, courtesy Jonathan Walford, kickshawproductions.com
Predominately necklines were a simple scoop or "V" but when collars were used they emphasized the long line. Sleeves were either long and straight or with bell shaping. Chiffons, light silks, soft velvets, lames, lightweight wools and soft cottons made up the fabrics. Sometimes a sash was applied to the hip but dresses also fell in a straight line. Although dresses were simple in construction, detail was apparent in surface ornamentation such as embroidery, soft braid, and beading for evening; or fabric manipulation such as pin tucking or pulled threadwork. Tabard style sheer or semi-sheer dresses were worn over matching slips.

 

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R. ca 1926 Blue Beaded Dress, courtesy Deborah Burke, antiquedress.com
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ca 1928 Velvet Beaded Evening Gown, courtesy Linda Ames, vintagetextile.com
As the "flapper era" became established, hemlines continued their scandalous ascent and had reached the knee by 1926. The drop waist continued its popularity but skirts and bodices became more complex with seaming, circular flounces and floating panels. Decorative seaming, contrasting fabrics, and overlays began to appear. Quality, previously apparent by means of complicated fit and construction was now expressing itself through fabric and by manipulating a single layer of material. Time consuming and costly beading was immensely popular, especially for dance dresses.

 

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1920s Yellow & Blue Chiffon Garden Dress, courtesy Candy Shiveley, contentmentfarmantiques.com
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ca 1926 Embroidered Blue Chiffon Dress, courtesy Hollis Jenkins-Evans, pastperfectvintage.com
Skirt levels, that some believed were indecent, were tamed in the 1928/29 fashion collections and asymmetrical hemlines (knee length in the front, longer in the back) made their appearance to forecast the longer hemlines of the 1930s. Waistlines gradually rose to resume the position nature had intended.

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Early 1920s Beaded Chiffon & Brocade Tabard Dress, courtesy Candy Shiveley, contentmentfarmantiques.com
Designers of the 20s included: Patou, Molyneux, Chanel, Boue Souers, Louiseboulanger, Augustabernard and Vionnet.