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Friday, 20 November 2009
Vintage Fashion Guild VFG Label Resource
Vintage Fashion Guild VFG Label Resource
CHAPMAN, CEIL Print E-mail
Written by artisannes   
CEIL CHAPMAN

Ceil Chapman’s son, Peter, described his mother’s design skills as being akin to engineering and indeed, if one studies her skilful draping, tucking and folding of fabric it is clear as to what he meant.

Born in Staten Island (where the family maintained a home throughout her lifetime and beyond) she became a Chapman when she married her first husband Samuel, with whom she went in to business in 1940, having previously set up a company with Gloria Vanderbilt, which traded, albeit briefly, as Her Ladyship Gowns.

The earliest Chapman label, ‘A Chapman Original’, endured for around three or four years until it gave way to the simple black on white, or white on black Ceil Chapman’, which endured until a needle and thread was incorporated in to the logo in the late 1950s to early 1960s. During their business partnership that ended in the mid1960s Ceil and Samuel divorced and she went on to marry Tom Rogers but retained the Chapman name as it had built a following among both the public and movie stars.

Ceil is often said to be Marilyn Monroe’s favourite designer and although this may be rather a sweeping statement the star did indeed wear some Chapman designs as did a variety of other stars such as Deborah Kerr, who was a personal friend, Elizabeth Taylor for whom she designed a wedding dress and Mamie van Doren, who chose a white, beaded, strapless Chapman gown to attend a film premier on behalf of Universal Studios publicity machine that was ‘marketing' her as a star.

Ceil designed for the movies and television and specialised in cocktail and more formal evening wear. Although her clothes were not cheap she did manage to make them affordable to many and her label could be found in department stores and boutiques. Favourite fabrics included silk, taffeta, jersey, chiffon, organdy, cotton and metallic brocades often embellished with beads, lace and sequins. She tended to stick to fairly tried and tested signature styles and so her designs are easily identifiable but also often copied.

Ceil was astute and derived additional income by lending her name and stylish image for advertising purposes to include Cadillac, which featured elegantly Chapman dressed models draped over luxury cars. Ceil even appeared, pictured in her studio, in advertisements on behalf of Western Union Telegrams and Playtex.

The business she ran with her ex-husband ran into financial difficulties in the mid 60s and thereafter she designed dresses under the Ceil Chapman for Miss Winston label, which was a line targeted at the younger woman.

Ceil Chapman died in the late 1970s.


from a 1940-1941 gown
Courtesy of wear_its_at_now_and_then


from a 1940s evening dress
Courtesy of scorpio_1027

from a 1940s evening dress
Courtesy of route66gal


from a late 1940s ballgown
Courtesy of artisannes


from a 1950s party dress
Courtesy of artisannes


from a 1950s evening skirt
Courtesy of coutureallurevintage.com


from a mid 1960s dress
Courtesy of artisannes


from a late 1960s cocktail dress
Courtesy of artisannes


 1950s Chapman with original tags
Courtesy of artisannes